32:

It’s the end of January, the month everyone hates. A month of poverty, of cold, grey days and dark nights that arrive too early and drag their feet as you push them out of the door. Well, all I can say as a January-birthday-haver is just you wait. Just you wait until February sets in. February’s the real villain.

February will still trick us with warmer days and bite us with snow and floods and frost, just when we think we’re almost through the worst of it. But this last part, the most fickle, harshest month, can’t hold forever. Imbolc takes place on Saturday 1st February.  The soil is warming up. The snowdrops have started meeting in their cabals, in open defiance of the iron grey sky. I’ve seen them. We’re nearly there.

Other stuff:

  • We’ll start with this. Kat Eschner put off reading Consider The Lobster for a long time, and when she finally read it, she liked it. But her essay about reading it is about so much more than just reading a book.

  • Hot dogs! I long, occasionally, for there to be hot dog carts in Clitheroe. Sadly this seems to be a major city thing only, but this run-down of the most average hot dogs in New York helped me out of my cravings. For a short while, anyway.

  • I had no idea the creator of Ren & Stimpy was such an asshole. The documentary about the cartoon looks like it’s going to be pretty intense, if this piece on it by Tom Grierson for Mel Magazine is anything to go by.

  • This week I learned (thanks, Isabelle O’Carroll) that noisy restaurants and bars aren’t just a personal preference thing, they cause serious accessibility issues for many people. Read this Vox piece by Julia Belluz. It’s really informative and positive — it shows how things can be changed for the better.

  • “…instead of swiftly removing himself or divesting, Friedman remained tied to the Spotted Pig, roping the fate of his employees to his own.” The Spotted Pig has closed. This Eater piece by Hillary Dixler Canavan expertly dissects what that means.

  • Here’s something so on-brand for me it may as well be wearing a Yeastie Boys hat: an evocative, luxurious essay on the Latin American women persecuted in colonial times for mixing magic with chocolate.

  • Cave diving, ice-shelf swimming, deep-sea freediving — I am fascinated and terrified by all of these things. See amazing photographs of Lewis Pugh’s swimming expedition through an ice shelf in Antarctica alongside his own words about the experience, which he did to raise awareness of the melting ice shelves. He shouldn’t have been able to swim through it. That was the point.

  • Foeders! No, not vats, FOEDERS. Lily Waite has written an immensely interesting longread about the brewig world’s new favourite old thing, and there’s a lot in there that made me smile.

  • Glou-glou. What is it? Why is it called that? This article by Aaron Ayscough from exactly two years ago, if you haven’t seen it before, is probably the best thing I’ve read on the subject. (Please feel free to send me your favourite writings on this controversial topic!)

  • Amazing words and photographs by Nicci Peet here on two equally amazing women grinding coffee and smashing the patriarchy.

  • Heard but not Seen” is about the dissonance the author, Tre Johnson, feels when they walk into unfamiliar spaces (in this case, white run and owned restaurants and bars) and hears hip-hop being used as instant “cool” wallpaper, or as they put it: “a soundtrack to gentrification and displacement.”

  • I already said this on Twitter but this interview with Hildur Guðnadóttir is a masterclass in interviewing, placing the artist firmly at the front and gently coaxing them to reveal how special they are, with a few well-researched, well-placed facts and highlights. In awe, I am. And taking notes.

  • I’ve read this article a lot since it was published. Jemma Beedie talks about taking children to the pub, and how it’s a feminist issue, and how family friendly pubs are vital to communities. It’s brilliant. Read it, especially if you think children shouldn’t be welcome in pubs. “One of the most efficient ways to cut women out of society, leaving them to fend for themselves, is to ban children from public spaces. Spaces like pubs.”

My stuff: 

Lewis Pugh swims through a gap in an
Antarctic ice shelf

Photograph: Kelvin Trautman

31: Beyond Texture


[CW: Food, Meat]
This week I read a tweet by someone who had been researching futuristic non-animal meat-like products for an article. They said that thinking about the texture in detail was making them queasy. The fake meat had been created so faithfully in meat’s image that its structure was exactly like that of animal muscle. For this person thinking about this in a synthesised food product is what tipped the balance from an expected texture into something grotesque.

While I treat meat as a luxury rather than a necessity, I do eat meat, and meat and what it represents doesn’t gross me out. I’ve realised recently that these two things don’t necessarily always go hand in hand. The idea that meat is something that was once alive, now dead for your enjoyment, is something people try not to think about. Understanding that the fibrous textures of a chicken breast are direct evidence of the use they once had is difficult. It demands, immediately and uncompromisingly, that you pay attention to the fact that what you are enjoying was once living its own life. That’s a difficult thought. 

What’s been turning around in my head all week is the idea that made-in-a-lab plant-based meat substitutes could be what turn some people off meat altogether. The naturalness of tissue and sinew, which we see on a daily basis everywhere we go, when given the stark backdrop of scientific intervention suddenly becomes a form of biological horror. And the idea of this really fascinates me.

[CW: The food/meat part is now over, thanks for bearing with me!]

Other Stuff:

  • The Go Compare opera singer is actually the nicest man in the world. Read this interview where he talks about online abuse, dealing with a difficult career and being happy with your life and you’ll see.

  • What do you know about sperm whales? This thread on their daily grind by one of Twitter’s best people really is beautiful.

  • Stained glass! We’ve not had much of that on here lately, have we? Southwark Cathedral’s website has a perfect section on their stained glass windows, with tons of info on each of them. 

  • This piece on servers still having nightmares about waiting tables ten years prior really resonated. TREAT YOUR STAFF BETTER. BE NICER TO SERVING STAFF!

  • If there was anyone in the world who’s article on crisp flavourings I’d want to read, it’d be Amelia Tait. And oh as luck would have it, she’s written about crisp flavourings this week.

  • Reclaiming rural queer culture in the USA with trucks. TruckSlutsMag is awesome. [h/t Lily Waite]

  • 11 ways women are the future of Philadelphia’s food scene. Thanks to BeerDetective who has been showing me good things about their hometown of Philly. I love hearing about good things from people’s hometowns. Please do this more.

  • This Twitter thread was my favourite thing I’ve seen on there in ages. A dad showing their son how photoshop works, incorporating a love for search and rescue vehicles.

  • Why is food in Berlin bad? I wouldn’t know, I’ve never been. But this article makes me feel like I’m an expert, and I love an article that makes me feel smarter after having read it.

  • A story about Roberto, Helen Rosner’s bean, sausage and kale soup. I make a similar soup (without the sausage) every so often and it’s lovely to read about how something so simple and comforting has tied so many people together online.

  • I feel like if you don’t know about a place, finding out what beer they drink there is a good place to start. Lucy Corne is such a champion of S. African craft beer and her first piece for Pellicle is a great deeper look into one of the bastions of her scene.

  • I really loved this idea of a “wine school”.

My Stuff:

  • This week I failed to hand in a short story for a competition because I got the deadline date totally wrong. I’m still really fucking angry with myself about it so every time my brain tries to show me a positive (“look on the bright side! You’ve completed a short story!”) I’m still getting even more mad. But I suppose now is as good a time as any to say — and therefore commit myself to the idea — that I’m writing a collection of short stories themed around food, drink, greed and lust. It’s still early days yet, but I’m excited about cracking on. But I’m still pretty fucked off about the competition.

  • I tried to make kombucha and instead started freaking out about responsibility. And then I wrote about it for Ferment mag.

  • ICYMI: I wrote about my sheepish forays into wine a couple of months ago and actually, I really like this piece. So here it is again.

Lepanto cycle (with a lifeboat)
Cy Twombly (and Andy Doe)

30: Three Hundred

Three is an odd number, and so I don’t really like it. I prefer two. It’s rounder, friendlier. But three is something I use all the time in writing whether I like it or not. The rule of threes is a perfect joke format: two normal things and a silly thing. An ideal list length. A natural way of laying out of ideas. See.

This is my 30th newsletter, and totally by chance, I’ve just reached 300 subscribers. (Thank you all. You have no idea how much it means to have 300 people willingly ready to read The Gulp.) It’s made me think about the number three, and why we naturally fall on it, and why three things are better than four — unless those things are mini scotch eggs. Then four is better.

I have three sisters. I am in my thirties. Also, because it’s now 2020, I’ve been writing about beer — and therefore regularly and with some sort of direction — for 3 years. That means this year counts as three years since I went to bed and lay there in the dark and thought: “You aren’t a writer. Why not?”

[I don’t know what I should do to celebrate 30 newsletters and 300 subscribers, it seems like a big fucking deal. I’m going to open a bottle of wine and make pizzas. Why don’t you reply to this email with ideas?]

Other Stuff:

  • I love Detectorists and this interview with Toby Jones and Mackenzie Crook about it from a few years ago is so perfect. It really lays out exactly what it is about the show that I love so much.

  • This piece on two unique souls making wine in Catalunya by Lucy Lovell really captured my imagination (Spain, wine, of course). It’s sunny and fun and free, but it’s also packed with juicy info and has tons of details to geek out on. Loved it.

  • A frank and moving piece about anxiety and how writing about beer has become a way to battle through it.

  • Did you know that garlic isn’t as beloved in Italy as it is elsewhere in the world? I didn’t. This piece by Danielle Callegari looks into “the great garlic divide”. (I just made a huge batch of marinara sauce and if I paid attention to classic sensibilities, I used about twice as much garlic as I should have. Oh well.)

  • I watched this BBC 4 documentary over the weekend because it was too grim to go outside, and it was perfect. Tales of Winter – The Art of Snow and Ice.

  • I’m obsessed with photographs and paintings of New York at the moment, and trying to trace how its layout and buildings have changed over the years. These beautiful paintings of the city from 1910-1920 by Samuel Halpert, a Polish immigrant, really took me by the hand. I love the perspectives, colours and shapes he uses, and the sense of fun in some of his work. It’s a totally different feeling to the serious black and white photographs that (to me) show an unwelcoming, intimidating city of change and skyscrapers.

My Stuff:

  • Not much to report this week — I’ve got something I’m really proud of on an editor’s desk at the moment, and a few other things in my drafts pile. (I use the American spelling. I’m not sorry. “Draught” is such an ugly word, I don’t like it at all. It looks like I should be pronouncing it “Droauuft” and no. I won’t.)

City View — Samuel Halpert

29: Health, resilience and strength. Repeat.

The thing I love about the idea of “manifesting” is that really it’s just thinking really hard about stuff you want, and occasionally saying it out loud to yourself while you potter about the house.

I’ve been seeing New Year’s Resolution speak bleed into the often manipulative world of self-care and motivational meme accounts online all year. Feeling sad? Have a bath (do I have to?) and write down five things you’ve achieved this week (five???). Anxiety flare-up? Keep a diary (oh great, another task to feel guilty about not doing) and make a list of everything that’s making you anxious (why? What a terrible idea!) and how you can solve those problems (omg you can’t). 

New Year can be super stressful, especially if your future is uncertain. Tom and I have a year of uncertainties ahead of us and that’s turning some cogs inside me, especially now we’re over the threshold of a new year. No self-help podcast or Instagram posi-post can help me now. So this year I’m manifesting in a different way. Of course I have career goals — I’m still me, come on — but the main things I’m putting out there as my serious 2020 energy are health, resilience and strength. So if you see me out and about and I’m muttering under my breath, this is what I’m doing. I’m probably not cursing anyone.

Other Stuff:


My Stuff:

Ladling chicken broth into heirloom lacquer bowls for ozoni.Credit…
Hilary McMullen for The New York Times