The Winter Droving

Bringing in the dark nights with fire.

Over the past week I’ve celebrated Samhain, the start of Christmas (it’s November, I can now watch bad films about stressed business women moving to small rural towns to run Christmas present farms) and a gorgeous full moon. The full moon happened to light up the sky above Penrith’s Winter Droving festival, bringing an extra dimension of symbolism to the flame torch processions.

The Winter Droving is relatively new in its current form, but is in fact a reimagining of an ancient tradition in Cumbria. This is the time when, as the weather worsens and the nights elongate, farmers would drive their cattle down from the highest, furthest fells to be closer to home, protecting them from storms, exposure, and wolves.

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Now the wolves are gone, but with Storm Ciarán knocking on the door it felt strangely relevant to hold a street party to protect ourselves from winter’s fury. Instead of driving cattle and herds of sheep through Penrith town centre, huge paper lantern sculptures of animals were held up in a parade, followed by druid-like participants with animal masks and outfits made of fur, bark and leaves, eyes smudged coal black, some with horns, some with wings. Each section of the parade was a different party—three different local samba drum bands and a brass band crashed through, and the torchlight procession howled at us, the spectators, as they wandered through the streets.

During our time in Penrith, we kept finding our way back to Fell Bar, one of several throughout Cumbria run by Fell Brewery. In fact, we went three times. It was packed. We sat with locals and talked about dogs, wine, moving to the countryside, and working as artists. We drank Fell’s excellent Stout and Robust Porter, and admired their concrete bar top. I’m looking forward to visiting again when it’s not the busiest night of the year, it seems like the perfect place to play cards and eat crisps.